Ensuring the metal liner is water tight!

Coolers often have standing water in them; for this reason, I need to ensure that it's water tight.

Soldering the galvanized metal.

• Why Muriatic Acid?

  Galvanized metal is iron or steel coated with a layer of zinc, which protects it from rusting. However, this zinc layer prevents solder from adhering properly. Muriatic acid reacts with the zinc, dissolving it and exposing the base metal, allowing the solder to form a strong bond.

• How to Use It:

  • Clean the area: Apply muriatic acid to the area you intend to solder.

  • Leave it on: Allow the acid to react with the zinc for about 60 seconds.

  • Do not rinse: The acid also acts as a flux, so after the 60 seconds, do not rinse the metal.

  • Apply patch and solder: Follow the instructions for soldering sheet metal, applying the patch and solder.

Here are a few youtube video's showing the process. I will say that I tried using a hot iron but could not repeat the processes cleanly which is why I soldered only the outside of the liner.

Instead I used a blow torch (yellow) to quickly heat up the solder. My technique was very sloppy but since it won't be seen, I focused on complete coverage and water tightness.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwtqIrOxBEY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzVcJH8ZraA&t=3949s

It's ugly but sealed it well! Since it will be covered, no one will see it.

Adding the drain

I chose a typical water barrel ball valve setup.

I needed two extenders to account for spacing for insulation.

Starting with a test piece to ensure it will work.

And it worked great except for the rim that's raised off of the metal. If I make more, I will investigate other options.

Here it is installed in the liner.

And here is the underneath view. Plenty of room for insulation.

Checking for Water Proofing before adding Butyl tape.

With this test fill, not a drop of water escaped!

Adding Butyl tape for extra insurance

Even though it was water tight with solder, I added butyl tape for extra insurance.

Adding mesh with train holes in the bottom incase water gets in.

I will add mesh around the outside base incase the solder and butyl fail so water can escape out the bottom.

What did this cost?

$15.95 for the brass spigot and $20 for the extenders. The lead free solder was $40 and I spent about $250 in tools to test the metal bending and soldering techniques.

What is the next stage?

Now it's time to start on the outer shell. In the next few weeks I will begin this process where I will take a sheet of baltic birch plywood and fuse a 3x5 American Flag under vacuum and being a long process of finishing sprays and cutting to form the outside octagon.

Have any questions? Ask away!

Mark Petrilla, Gorilla Bark Studio's

Paying tribute to those who keep us safe.